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Bat Care
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Bat Care
Cricket bats are made of willow. It is to be expected that the condition of the bat will deteriorate during its usage.
Irrespective of make or finish of a bat, superficial face and edge marks will almost certainly appear, together with indentations or bruising of the willow. This happens especially when 'poly type' coverings have been used, when the covering (a man-made fiber) does not react in exactly the same manner as willow (a natural fiber). In these circumstances there is no need to worry or concern as the durability and performance of the bat will be unaffected. Almost all bats returned to us by worried and sometimes ill-advised customers, are not complaints due to manufacture, but merely reactions of willow. If you are in doubt telephone us first before returning the bat, it could save unnecessary postage and inconvenience. |
Preparation of ‘natural finish’ bats
The bat needs several light coats of Salix bat wax or raw linseed oil, allowing each coat to dry separately. Light coats should be applied to the face, edge, toe and back of the blade - taking care to avoid the logos and the splice area. Generally two or three coats should be sufficient. Each coat should be allowed to dry into the blade in a horizontal position before the next is applied
The bat needs several light coats of Salix bat wax or raw linseed oil, allowing each coat to dry separately. Light coats should be applied to the face, edge, toe and back of the blade - taking care to avoid the logos and the splice area. Generally two or three coats should be sufficient. Each coat should be allowed to dry into the blade in a horizontal position before the next is applied
The main purpose of oiling is to maintain moisture levels within the blade, and hence reduce the chances of cracking and splitting.
Knocking in can commence from the first coat.
All bats are pressed, however 'knocking in' is VITAL. This is the process by which the fibres of the willow in the face and edges are compressed together to form a barrier, which protects the bat against the impact of the ball. Effective 'knocking in' will significantly improve the performance and increase the life span of the bat .
The 'knocking in' process should be undertaken carefully, using a special bat mallet or an old, quality cricket ball. The bat should be repeatedly struck (with gradually increasing force) in all areas where one would normally expect to hit the ball, this conditioning must be performed with patience. Particular attention should be given to the edges, although the edges or toe should not be struck directly at right-angles to the blade. This would be likely to cause damage.
This stage should take in the region of six hours, although it may vary as every bat is different
This stage should take in the region of six hours, although it may vary as every bat is different
Before the first game or nets, and after buffing off any excess wax/oil, carefully apply anti-scuff to the face, being careful not to cause damage to the wood when trimming (do not trim on the bat). Anti-scuff facing is essential for the first season, but at the close, please remove the facing across the grain (left to right), sand and oil/wax again. This is the best route to a long lasting, optimal performing bat
The worst thing a player can do to his bat
1. Over Oil an untreated, plain, non-synthetically covered blade, thus increasing the weight and making the willow dead with no drive, this eventually gives the wood 'oil rot.
2. Endeavor to wash it clean with water.
3. Constantly lap the bit in the crease on a wet wicket, thus saturating the base of the bat, causing the pressing to lift and the base of the bat to swell and generally crack horizontally.
4. Use it without Knocking in' or treatment.
5. Continual 'edging' thus causing bruising and unnecessary indentations.
6. Hit 'Yorkers' (blockholers on the toe of the blade, thus either denting and bruising the willow causing it generally to split horizontally but completely through the bat. This is more likely to happen on indoor, hard or synthetic wickets or at the beginning of the season when the ground is very hard.
7. Using Cheap Cricket balls (especially those with hard centres) which bruise and dent the willow. Many bats are dented due to this reason
1. Over Oil an untreated, plain, non-synthetically covered blade, thus increasing the weight and making the willow dead with no drive, this eventually gives the wood 'oil rot.
2. Endeavor to wash it clean with water.
3. Constantly lap the bit in the crease on a wet wicket, thus saturating the base of the bat, causing the pressing to lift and the base of the bat to swell and generally crack horizontally.
4. Use it without Knocking in' or treatment.
5. Continual 'edging' thus causing bruising and unnecessary indentations.
6. Hit 'Yorkers' (blockholers on the toe of the blade, thus either denting and bruising the willow causing it generally to split horizontally but completely through the bat. This is more likely to happen on indoor, hard or synthetic wickets or at the beginning of the season when the ground is very hard.
7. Using Cheap Cricket balls (especially those with hard centres) which bruise and dent the willow. Many bats are dented due to this reason